From the day of the birth of fashion week and fashion concept, Milan and Paris, both veteran modern capital, inevitably have been constantly compared. In fact, Milan is not an entertaining city, the most attractive thing is more than two pieces, one is Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper"; the second is the fashion show staged regularly, golden, endless, the real curtain call When I am afraid that only the end of the world. In a hurry, hurry to go, by the end of June for a period of four days of spring and summer men's week is beginning and ending in this rhythm. However, it is gratifying that the process is still good. It is like reading a good short story, neat and tidy, yet memorable. This year the whole of Paris 2010 spring and summer men's weeks seem depressing and retro, designers deliberately with some nylon fabric and yarn-dyed fabrics to enhance a little brightness and lightness, but obviously from the two men's Week, Paris and Milan two The difference between cities, the Milan people in the face of continued downturn in the economy has been going out for a holiday, but the Parisians are still immersed in overwhelmed. However, the good news is that, despite the spirit of falling behind the positive Milan, the Paris Men's Week in fashion in place to the extent they absolutely did not make a small discount. They bring men a lot of new bright spots, maybe not the best of them, but you will surely find the one for you. Milan local time on June 20, Ermenegildo Zegna's spring and summer 2010 men's clothing conference opened the curtain of the new season spring and summer show, which also means that a new four-day Milan Men's Week debut season. If from the realistic urban function, Milan seems to be for a year in the cycle of fashion week exists, the ongoing popular trend is the slow city beating nerves. Mossoni designer ngela Missoni has been committed to leading this 50-year-old traditional brand to adapt to modern needs, she used the same color inherent brightness of two very different colors for color, cut lines more relaxed, she also gold Silver thread fabric into the design of the line of clothing, as well as with the canine pattern linen cut the coat. It is said that the metaphor of this show is that men have cheer up. In Milan, Italy, where the effects of the economic crisis have continued, men's brands and designers have been given a shotgun. Compared to the January autumn and winter men's week has not yet started there are several brands announced the withdrawal of the swell compared to the number of men's wear week brand rose 15% over January, a total of 93 clothing series on display, a total of 41 fashion Released and 54 exhibition activities. The point that best describes the issue is that Louis Vuitton's Marc Jacobs, the brand's creative director, first unveiled the men's piece for personal brand Marc Jacobs to Milan for release, at which point it was released at New York Fashion Week . According to the "Italian Sun" statistics, this year for the first time to join the Milan Men's Week, the new brands include Caruso, Io Ipse Idem, Jeckerson and Marani, Io Ipse Idem which is the founder of the famous designer Romeo Gigli brand. "Everyone is optimistic.We talk about the future, talk about how we can change the way we do business, and what kind of design can help transform our fashion industry," said Tommy Fazio, Bergdorf Goodman's men's fashion director. The rebound of Italian men's clothing is also reflected in the 76th Pitti Uomo Men's Wear show held in Florence from June 16 to June 19. Known as "the world's most professional men's show," Pitti Uomo in Florence men's clothing show held in January and June each year, because with the Milan / Paris Men's Week, the date is also considered a prelude to Men's Week. Pitti Uomo Menswear Fair focuses on the physical display and ordering compared to the men's week focused on design, so it's more representative of the entire industry. Last season, the Muse of the Pitti Uomo men's show was the newly appointed President Barack Obama. This time, a huge poster featuring Obama's background took up almost a wall of the exhibition hall. The concept of FUTURO MASCHILE (the men's future) More than 20,000 garment practitioners in the world. "The Italian fashion industry has undergone a U-shaped crisis and is now showing an upward trend," said Mario Boslli, president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. The rebound in trading volume has given designers confidence. Out of the conservative design of the previous quarter, with the color of a single decline, fashion critics generally believe that designers this time "really put the skills and creativity on the clothes." It's hard to conclude uniform rules from different shows of different styles, but this time, many designers choose to return to the original core values ​​of their brands without over-fancy forms. In the classic, nostalgia and continuation improvements, Fashion. "The series starts with a very classic, mix of different styles of gray suits and then goes black and white before introducing something that looks a bit wrong, like a porous material that creates a transparent effect and a thin high The technical fabrics are laminated - wool with silk. The series actually has many colors, such as some light colors and some reds, but I just like the gray for the entire release. "- Miuccia, Director of Prada Brand Design Prada) said. Miao Xiya on their own created "Men's Women" wave clever breakthrough. This season men's notice from a black and white movie "Twelve Angry Men." Her colors, black and white, and the color between the two, serve as the tone for her new menswear line, creating a contrasting contrast of light and shade based on gray tones and recreating the classic wardrobe style of men. Redrawing proportions of classic gray suit suits bring a youthful sense of modernity - with a rounded, concise shoulder line and narrow cuffs, an overall cut-out silhouette with a single row of lower handles Double buckle, and then with the cut on the clear shorts and the most simple V-neck tie buckle knit shirt. Fabric applications also add a contemporary feel to the collection, reflected in soft summer tweeds and futuristic perforated jerseys, such as jagged sweatshirts and pigeons stacked in gray, anthracite and anthracite sweater. Those same mesh treatments bring a light feel and make the remodeled sleeve coats look lighter. On the second day of the International Herald Tribune, popular fashion critic Suzy Menkes quoted Miuccia Prada as saying: "I would like to pack men in gray suits, depending on the current circumstances, but they are trendy and have a soul . "The same can predict the customer psychology is BURBERRY PRORSUM design director Christopher Bailey (Christopher Bailey). Bailey knew what his male customers needed, so he did not go astray for innovation. He uses a pragmatic approach. Designed clothing essentials is BURBERRY PRORSUM's usual expertise, this season, PRORSUM series is full of wax or fleece surfaced cotton summer jacket, fit comfort; there are slim navy coat and light bright casual wear There are of course many forms of classic trench coat, with a subtle wash or slightly wrinkled treatment - all of which are applied almost always to the color of winter sensations. "I start with rain and finish with sunshine - the series starts with a wax, a soft fabric in the middle, and a dark hue that ends with a light, soft feel and bright watercolor hues." He said , "Men like to go back to the pretty look they are familiar with. They know what works for them and want the kind of wardrobe they need, not just a quarter of a garment." Simplicity is Giorgio Armani's consistent Features. Unprecedented designer Giorgio Armani put his heyday of the 1980s when the exquisite tailoring techniques are played out, gentleman shorts and formal wear Bermuda, walk in between elegance and cynicism. Clothing colors are low-key blue-gray, dark gray and light brown-based, with catwalks to female models retro hair and dress appearance, like the 1960s old movie characters. Trussardi 1911 Inspired by its folk spirit, Continuation of Haute Couture can be found in this collection: Denim-style fleece trousers, laser engraved horsehide jackets, braided lambskin sweatshirts throughout the entire A series of hanging spire trim, even the most formal dress is no exception. The present economic environment adds an additional justification to the existence of ethnic style. People no longer expect to be dressed in the same style. They have different aspirations and dream of diversities that do not deviate from the origins of their people. Milan men's week after the end of the men's 2010 release of the tide of the relay came to Paris. Also a four-day cycle, Hermes, Givenchy, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Calvin Klein Collection, Dior Homme, Dunhill and other famous men's brand has appeared. Among them, the New York designer Tim Hamilton made its debut in Paris, but Issey Miyake no longer release the static display of fashion, for the first time to switch T presentation. At the same time, the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto canceled YohjiYamamoto2010 Spring / Summer Men's Week in Paris show, the master explained the matter only plain and helpless words - "global economic conditions." Prior to this, Armand Basi, Veronique Branquinho has announced Abandoned, brilliant new season designer Gareth Pugh, also men's week before the start of the conference annulled regret. 2010 Paris Spring Summer menswear week has not yet opened has cast a layer of sadness. The highlight of the first day of the 2010 Spring / Summer Paris Men's Week is LOUIS VUITTON's big show in a remote community of 19 districts, which was said to have been the site of a graveyard below, but has now been converted into a Community art and culture center, show field was designed as a sky feeling, black mouth is said to imply a black hole, while the ground black sand there is the feeling of the night sky. This series is very pleasantly surprised, to maintain the typical sense of dark gray tone, silver-colored sneakers, pants, bowler hats and large handbags abound, the color is very artistic, as if the turbid toning Plate, it is said that the whole series is inspired by the butterfly wing pattern, a rare Paul Helbers concept can be so fancy things, so masculine. Another surprise from Spring / Summer 2010 Paris Men's Week comes from dunhilll, though I do not know why the viewer was jammed into a small room on June 27. Dunhill station is a silver suitcase, we all expressed a strong interest in this set up, have come up with the camera, until the music was heard after it was found that it is a turntable, a silver box turn up, shake People dizzy. The strength of designer Kim Jones has been fully played this season, a simple light earth tone and elegant combination of gray and blue look very elegant. The outline of the clothes or those classic style, but the details of a lot of bold attempts to do, such as the interspersed belt, coat cuffs fold the lace, cut becomes more personal ... ... More surprises are some models Design, but also make the whole show looks special temperament, such as floral short-sleeved shirt with a scarf, pants with cut flowers boots, fit hunting chest chest patch pocket pocket pockets and pens. It was not easy to be able to make an old dunhilll brand trendy and traditional, and Kim Jones did it and showed it clearly to all the viewers. Yves Saint Laurent's men's show opened with Samuel Benchetrit's director, son Jules. Jules hoarse voice indicates that this is a dignified show. Sure, gray black and white occupied the main part of a new spring and summer series Yves Saint Laurent. The long, short, long tail tuxedo is the source of inspiration for this season, either for formal suit fabrics and tailoring, for casual plush fringe details, or as large lapels as windbreaker, full of style without losing aristocrats. Designers understand that under the current circumstances, no man wants to arm himself like a banker in a traditional, stereotypical suit. Under the impact of the financial tsunami, those who used to represent the elite dress no longer become men's advertised fashion. In the upcoming spring and summer of 2010, the designers invariably focus on the holiday and sports style, men can actually relax. Dior Homme was cut and Gothic dark style was representative, but the continuous change in the designer Kris Van Assche for many seasons, 2010 Dior Homme finally freed Dior Homme's weakness, replaced by the knitted v-neck Shirts, casual pants comfortable shape, loose size and two buttoned casual suits in an attempt to create a sense of casual and formal clothing balance. Linen, suede, crumpled knitwear, and showcased earth-colored rugs made Hermès boys feel like they were on Country Road. This season's sports style retains the designer classic Veronique Nichania classic design, iconic decorative patterns, equestrian silk shirt, swim trunks and classic scarves with Hermès2010 Men's main trend is close to the natural color of the Bohemian style Paris is another interpretation. "It's time for slender, immature boys to grow up," said Alber Elbaz, LANVIN's director of design. This season LANVIN men's diverse colors, but quite coordinated. Bold stripe with plaid, or twill shirt, pants straight strip supporting, is the concept of liberalism; curved change of the film, bubble-shaped sleeves, some Oriental style fun; thin silk tie was deliberately Pressed into the waistband, there is a little rock star David Bowie's shadow. Alber said that men should be elegant next spring and summer, it is best to have a little breakthrough in the guts. Inspired by Italy, Antonio Marras, Kenzo's designer, dresses up the spring and summer of 2010 as a luxurious, high-class vacation collection. Coordinated by white, green, gray and blue, Antonio Marras abandoned Kenzo's consistent bright flower tone and preferred softer colors. And this more suitable for everyday wear series, monochrome style, beautiful printing, casual style, but also more suited to Kenzo's cotton and linen texture itself. Givenchy theme is "Latin boys go to Morocco", the real core of this series is clearly a multi-level North African-style sportswear. Designer Riccardo Tisci's tight-legged pant-plus shorts in the previous two seasons are still in use, along with an eye-catching mosaic inlaid printed fabric, giving Tisci the extreme sexy athleticism of his "sports uniforms." Although the 5-day Paris Fashion Week looks magnificent, in fact many people are pessimistic about the entire French textile industry behind them. "I've been very resistant to busy work for fourteen years since October 2008, but now I'm very desperate about the order status today," says Jean-Pierre Bernard, whose label La Ferté Confection is based in Normandy, Its more than 90 employees. Bernard said LOUIS VUITTON is ready to cut its order from its supplier, La Ferté, which amounts to a quarter of their total volume. Chloe, Thierry Mugler and Andrew Gn are among the company's clients that have seen a 40% drop in orders.