Wool Lecture 1

First quarter Textile fiber

The wool yarn for knitting sweaters is made of textile fibers after certain processing . The textile fibers can be divided into natural fibers and chemical fibers . Generally, the lengths are more than 1CM , and they all belong to polymer compounds .

1. Natural fiber . Natural fiber is divided into the following two categories :

A. vegetable fibers (i.e., cellulose fibers), such as cotton (COTTON), ramie (LINEN), flax (RAMIE), etc. Cotton is the world's largest output natural textile fibers, cotton alkali stable, typically with a base of cotton carry out the process, such as desizing, scouring, mercerizing, etc. when bleached cotton is treated with an oxidizing agent, such as NaCLO, H2O2, NaCLO2, dyeing available direct dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes, sulfur, oxygen-insoluble dyes even dyeing .

B. Animal fiber ( ie protein fiber ). For example, wool (Wool), rabbit hair (Angora), camel hair (Camelhair), horse sea (Mohair is also called 唏 唏 ), silk (SILK), etc. , wool and silk and other animals Fiber is a linear protein composition ; wool protein is keratin , silk protein includes sericin , silk .

Wool structure and performance : wool from the outside to the inside are scales , cortex , hair pulp; but young wool has no hair pulp; wool in the water will cause a large carpet shrinkage , which is due to the mechanical force repeatedly Caused by intertwining with each other . Long-term boiling of wool in water will cause partial hydrolysis of wool , which is more prone to main chain hydrolysis than in steam , disulfide bond is broken , wool is not alkali resistant , and it is not resistant to oxidants . Chlorine oxidation scale layer was partially destroyed, it is treated with chlorine oxides occurs wool blanket prevents condensation, can enhance dyeability. wool or amplitude shaping through high tension, there is hot water at a high temperature in the steam through condensation phenomenon. The dyes available for wool are acid-containing dyes , acid dyes , and acid mordants.

2, chemical fiber : chemical fiber is divided into man-made fiber and synthetic fiber .

A. Man-made fiber is made from natural cellulose or protein and chemically processed to produce regenerated cellulose fiber or protein fiber , such as viscose fiber , copper ammonia fiber and regenerated protein fiber .

Rayon (Rayon) is the world's first man-made cellulose fibers are wood or cotton linters (short can not be used to fine spinning cotton fibers) viscose processed into raw materials, and then molding Reeling reeling into filaments. Artificial . wire having excellent strength and less stretchability chemical properties substantially similar to other plant fibers reeled raw yarn is smooth, but may also be further processed into different luster and feel rayon, such as: Yasi ( Dull rayon, low gloss, soft touch), Modal, etc. for this reason, high gloss rayon was again called Bright rayon (light silk), in order to distinguish it from Yasi (Dull rayon).

B. Synthetic fiber is a simple organic compound as a raw material , which is synthesized into a polymer compound , and then processed into a fiber through a die . The commonly used ones are as follows :

a. nylon (Nylon) Nylon is synthesized chemically the first non-cellulosic synthetic fiber, chemically position, said nylon but a class of amides as the starting point of the synthesis of polyol composition (Polymers), collectively, have a good bleach Resistance , long-term exposure under sunlight , slightly reduced strength ; good wear resistance ; no reduction ; no elongation , elasticity , luster ; cloth dyes , acid dyes are combined , dyeing a wide range .

b. artificial (Acrylic) that is polyacrylonitrile (also known as acrylic), easy to accumulate static electricity, stable to weak acid weak base, good drift.

c. Baoli Long (Polyester), i.e., polyester fibers, nylon can be classifies, remains the most obvious feature is creased with cotton or wool blend is good, was dissolved in concentrated H 2 SO 4, alkali resistance is not Good ; good resistance to bleach , detergent , surface agent , friction and sunlight ; no shrinkage , easy to wash ; poor sweat absorption , easy to accumulate static ; can be dyed with cloth dye and chromogenic dye .

Textile fibers contains a certain amount of impurities, such as cotton, hemp fibers waxy substance, nitrogenous substances, pigments and minerals, etc. in the silk sericin, wool suet (dandruff), sheep sweat, weeds Etc .; oil stains in chemical fibers ; there are also some unsuitable fibers , such as black wool in Cashmere . Therefore, the fibers may undergo many impurity removal processes before and after spinning , such as cotton desizing , wool. charring weeding process. some also according to different character requirements screening fiber, removing substandard fiber. in addition to conventional retaining its original white (raw white), the majority of the fibers should be required to bleach (bleach ) or stain (Dye). we usually casual hair dyeing called "Top dye". fibers at high temperatures or chemical agents related to the role will have varying degrees of damage, the role of the longer, the more seriously damaged, it can be said that , the deeper the stain, the more serious damage to the fiber. In addition, some The fiber also has some special treatments , such as : Mercerized treatment of cotton .

※                 ※※The shrinkage density of wool is from large to small: snow 〉毛>wool>rabbit>mammary>cotton>clear dragon>artificial hair

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